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THE
FIRST COTTAGE - part 2
The
top section of the ceiling completed. It's no fun heaving full
2.5 x 1.2 metre plasterboard sheets up to the top of
the house,
and even less fun trying to get them into position for screwing
down. I devised a couple of props from chevron (the nearest equivalent
to our 4 x 2 timber), which were in the form of a T with the top
section hinged. This worked remarkably well. Placing the sheet
in position then jamming the props against the plasterboard, the
prop takes
up
the angle of the ceiling and prevents it from slipping. It's a
very cheap alternative to specialist equipment. The oak purlins
were stained down and finished with a water based acrylic varnish
(I've never been a lover of polyurethane), the plasterboard joints
taped, skimmed with filler, sanded and then painted. Having finished
the ceiling then the grenier floorboard were removed, followed
by most of the joists.
In
our opinion, the first thing to plan in a property like this
is
the position of the bathroom, in particular the toilet -
principally
because of the size of the waste pipe. With a plethora of oak
beams to navigate and 3 ft. thick walls to go through, it makes
sense to position it first and ensure that the route out is feasible.
Thus
all our carefully drawn out plans were thrown out of the window
and replaced with a piece of chalk! We drew out the room plan
on the floor, making it up as we went along, changing and adjusting
where necessary until we had catered for everything. It would
be the way we would work on the other properties as well.
Meanwhile we also completed the studwork to block off
part of the attic area over the bedrooms, which would
have flat ceilings. Here we built the studwork inside
the original oak beams which would eventually remain
exposed.
You
will note from the photo opposite that the roof has
no internal lining. It's an enormous undertaking to
fit internal lining because it involves removing all
of the tiles, so unless you are actually re-tiling the
roof then it really isn't practical. Frankly we've never
had any leakage problems with the modern interlocking
tiles although we do carry out an external check on
them each year.
My neighbours were fascinated by the studwork - it's
very uncommon in France, where metal section is normally
used. Although metal section is probably cheaper and
easier to use, I personally dislike it, particularly
for walls. I like something which at least looks solid
- the metal rail system leaves a plasterboard wall around
5cm thick, and looks out of place in an old property.
Studwork also allows for the installation of a thicker
sound insulation material.
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